In addition to beach combing and visiting the sauna, during my visit to Langeoog last month I also learned that Ostfriesland has the largest consumption of tea per person, worldwide — 300 liters per person, per year! And it’s not just about consuming tea, but there’s also a very special art and ritual associated with drinking tea in East Frisia. Needless to say, I was very happy to see that the off-season deal I booked at the Hotel Norderrif also included a welcome tea by the fireplace.
East Frisian tea itself consists of mostly Assam leaves — which makes for a strong, dark tea — brewed with soft, filtered water. The tea is best sipped out of delicate porcelain cups in which you place a piece of white or brown rock sugar (known as Kluntje) before pouring the tea.
You then use a small spoon to pour in a bit of cream — either towards the edge of the cup, or counterclockwise, in order to ensure a beautiful milky cloud of cream. Here’s something very important: There’s no stirring allowed! The East Frisians instead enjoy the different flavors that come first from the strong tea, then from the cream, and finally from the sugar that’s melted at the bottom of the cup.
Tea time is typically at 3pm, but it’s not unheard of to have a mid-morning tea time and another in the evening. Guests are also frequently greeted with a pot of tea, no matter the time of their arrival. And in case you find yourself a guest of East Frisian hosts, remember that drinking fewer than three cups of tea is often considered impolite!
As most of you know, I’m much more of a coffee drinker — a true Seattleite, through and through! Even so, I loved the ritual associated with drinking tea on Langeoog. I really enjoyed my late afternoon tea, curled up with my Kindle, and staring out the window at the blustery weather. Just perfect.
Coffee or tea? Have you ever tried the East Frisian art of drinking tea?
For more information on the Ostfriesische Teekultur, these are great articles:
- Ein perfektes Schietwetter-Ritual: Die ostfriesische Tee-Zeremonie from Wortkonfetti
- In Northern Germany, a Robust Tea Culture from the NY Times
This warms my heart. I’m a native East Frisian (we moved away when I was 10) and so it will always be tea for me. In fact, I’m having one right now (without the proper ceremony, though).
Oh, Esther, I’m so glad to hear it! How wonderful that you carry a little bit of East Frisia with you still as an adult.
another native, here. i’m currently in the middle of Ostfriesland for Christmas and having a cup right now. glad you enjoyed langeoog, the “long eye”. lots of running opportunities, too.
Thanks for your comment! I will definitely be returning to Langeoog — I found it particularly charming in the fall. I loved the marked paths of varying distances for “Nordic walkers”/runners! Hope you have a wonderful Christmas back home and please enjoy a cup of tea for me. :)