Travel | Visiting Bishkek

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed

Kyrgyzstan first appeared on my radar in a real and concrete way last summer as I learned I would be consulting on a research project in this Central Asian country. Having very little idea about Kyrgyzstan, I tried to orient myself by reading books and manuscripts about its cultural history and talking to friends from Kyrgyzstan and others who have spent time in that part of the world. And then after a lot of work, at the end of February I was able to travel to Bishkek — the capital city — for a handful of days to give a talk at a workshop. I didn’t have a huge amount of spare time, but thanks to posts like this one and advice from other bloggers (thanks Christie!), I put what time I did have to good use!

Traveling to Kyrgyzstan couldn’t have been more straightforward — Turkish Airlines took me from Bremen to Istanbul and then directly to Bishkek. Less pleasant was the fact that most flights seem to arrive and depart in the painfully early hours of the morning, so I arrived at 6:30am — and departed several days later at 4:30am — and had a half-an-hour cab ride into the city before the sun came up. When I did get to wander around during daylight hours, it felt like a super interesting mish-mash of old Soviet architecture, Kyrgyz buildings, and luxury hotels and shopping centers.

Ala-Too Square

On my first free afternoon, I walked to Ala-Too Square in the center of the city, which required a bit of concentration thanks to the extremely varying quality of the sidewalks and the general lack of crosswalk signals for pedestrians. But I made it, and got to enjoy the unseasonal 70-degree F (21 C) weather too! Built in the mid-1980s to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic, Ala-Too Square is quite a sight to behold.  It probably goes without saying, but the scale of these Soviet buildings are absolutely massive! Thanks to living in the former East Berlin, I had some idea of this, but have to admit I was blown away by Bishkek. These buildings were very successful at making me feel very small. Incidentally, Ala-Too Square is also where the 2005 anti-government protest known as the Tulip Revolution took place.

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed
A statue of the national hero, Manas, with the State History Museum in the background

State History Museum

The massive block-like building in Ala-Too Square is the State History Museum (or National Historical Museum), which I highly recommend for a visit. Unless you read Russian, you won’t understand a thing about the exhibitions (which have seen better days), but the architecture and the Soviet-propaganda ceiling murals alone are worth the visit! FYI, I wasn’t allowed to take photos with my DSLR, but they didn’t have a problem with iPhone photography.

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed
A beautiful ceiling mural depicting a wedding party attended by the melting pot of nationalities in the USSR

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed
The back of the State History Museum

Also in the neighborhood

Hidden behind the museum is the statue of Lenin that used to be located in the center of Ala-Too Square. While many former Soviet republics got rid of reminders of the USSR after independence, Kyrgyzstan was satisfied with simply moving Lenin to a less central location. :)  Also worth checking out nearby is Panfilov Park, a small amusement park in the middle of the city. It is exactly what I imagine that Berlin’s Spreepark would look like if it was still functioning! On my way back to the hotel, I caught the changing of the guard in Ala-Too Square (on the hour), which is certainly worth trying to make happen if you can.

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed

Travel : Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed

Ala Archa National Park

On my one full free day in Bishkek, my hosts arranged to take me to Ala Archa National Park, which is about 40 kilometers south of the city. Bishkek itself is already 800 meters (half a mile) above sea level, which you only really notice if you get on the hotel treadmill to try to keep up with your marathon training and then feel super sluggish and wonder where your fitness has disappeared to before realizing that the altitude actually might play a role — ahem. Anyway, this huge mountain range provides a gorgeous backdrop to the city and I was quite excited to get to visit it in person.

The drive there took about an hour, and although the temperatures in the city were in the upper 60s F (20 C), it was considerably cooler in the mountains and the trails were still covered in snow. I didn’t have the proper shoes along for trudging through the snow, so we didn’t hike for too long, but it was enough to enjoy the mountain air and breathtaking views. I was told that in the summer, the trails are swarming with hikers and backpackers. The park apparently also plays hosts to high level foreign guests and visiting government officials, showcasing Kyrgyzstan’s natural treasures.

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed

Travel: Visiting Bishkek | No Apathy Allowed

Eating in Bishkek

I also tried lots of wonderful food — meat-filled pastries, noodles, dumplings, and rice dishes that I really don’t remember the names of — and would highly recommend trying them all if you visit! Sorry for the lack of photographic evidence, but I mostly ate out with colleagues that I don’t know very well and felt a bit awkward being that person taking pictures of every meal. (I’m clearly not cut out to be a food blogger.) I really enjoyed Navat, which is a gorgeous, upscale (but affordable) restaurant, and made use of the free wifi (and their chocolate milkshakes) a couple of times at Sierra Coffee.

Would I go back?

So my friends, that was my trip to Bishkek in a nutshell. (For more photos, here is my full Flickr album.) I definitely would have liked to have spent more time there and seen more of the country, so I hope that it’s not my last visit to Kyrgyzstan! Perhaps next time I would do some real hiking, or visit the lake resort of Issyk-Kul, or take a trip to the south of the country…

Do you have any favorite places to explore in Central Asia? What’s on your to-see list in Kyrgyzstan?

InstaFriday: Finding My Rhythm

Bremen welcomes me back after a long night and day of travel. #lovebremen
Via Instagram

Hey guys! Do you know that I think of you and this blog nearly every day? Even though (or maybe, especially because) I haven’t been able to spend more time posting. So I decided to stop waiting for that magical combination of enough energy, time, and muse — and just post for heaven’s sake! My life is overflowing right now with deadlines and commitments  and all sorts of great things that I can’t seem to say no too. That means rushing through each day, trying to accomplish as much as humanly possible. Sound familiar? I know I’m not the only one! But I’m worried that it’s going to catch up with me, so whenever possible I’m trying to be aware of building in enough down time.

I can’t say I’m doing a great job at that, but at least marathon training is forcing me to eat well, get enough sleep, and stretch a lot. Only five weeks until the big day! Honestly, I can hardly believe I’ve made it this far. There are just two more big long runs left — 19 miles this weekend and 20 miles on Easter Sunday. I don’t want to jinx it, but so far, so good. I have lot of thoughts about this whole process to share with you, but I’ll write a dedicated post closer to the end of my training.

In the meantime, I’m doing my best to settle into my blogging rhythm again. It might take a bit of patience, but I think it will be worth it.

What have you been up to lately? Any advice for how to slow down once in awhile?

A Little Update

A winter morning
A winter morning in Bremen

It feels like ages since I last spent time in this space and I’ve really missed sharing here! Since I last posted, it’s been both a winter wonderland here in Bremen and flowers and trees already began blooming in early February. The pace of life since returning to Germany after the holidays (photos and tales from Seattle are still to come) has been completely unrelenting, but in very good ways…

I’m all set to travel next week to Kyrgyzstan’s capital of Bishkek for work and am very much looking forward to discovering a new (to me) part of the world. Any tips you might have would be more than welcome! Even though I’m only spending a few days there, I will definitely be sharing more about my trip with you after I return. (If you can’t wait, I’ll be posting photos throughout my travels on Instagram.)

Also, I’ve hinted at it here before, but haven’t made an official announcement: I’m training for the Hamburg Marathon taking place in mid-April. Yes, that’s a big deal! The last time I attempted to train for a marathon was for NYC  in 2004, which unfortunately resulted in me having to drop out midway through training due to IT-band syndrome. I have to admit that that experience pretty much scared me off from marathons for quite awhile, but thank goodness it didn’t turn me off from running completely! Rather, I happily devoted myself to the half marathon and 10K distances.

But after cheering a friend on at the Berlin Marathon last fall, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I wanted to give the full marathon distance one more try. Even though I’m older, I think I’m a smarter and fitter runner than I was 12 years ago. So I quietly began training for Hamburg shortly before Christmas, a little reluctant to make a big deal out of it “just in case”. But with 10 weeks of successful training behind me, and only 8 more weeks to go, I’ve gotten a bit more optimistic since I’ve started hitting brand new personal distance records every week. My body seems to be responding well so far to the mileage and it is very likely that you will hear more from me on that front.

Thanks for your patience while this space remained silent and I can’t wait to start spending more time with you here!

Bremen

What have you been up to in January and February? Has winter been especially strange where you are too?

Doing Whole30 in Germany

Whole30 in Germany | No Apathy Allowed
My well-used Whole30 cookbook

Back when I was training for the Bremen half marathon over the summer, I was already thinking about the need for resetting my nutritional habits — so the Whole30 program that I’d been reading about on a lot of American fitness blogs intrigued me. What I liked most was the focus on improving health through nutrition, unlike many other fads out there which seem to be centered around weight loss. I thought it would do me some good to become aware of what I was eating and how that affects my body in general. But I wondered if I could successfully adapt it to my life and manage Whole30 in Germany.

I won’t go into too much detail about Whole30 itself because they have a very thorough website, but basically it entails removing sugar, alcohol, grains, legumes and dairy from your diet. In their book It Starts With Food (which I already reviewed briefly here), the creators of Whole30 go into a good amount of detail about how these food groups tend to create inflammation and different sorts of problems for the body. They don’t claim that all of these food groups have a negative effect on everyone, but rather argue that by removing them all from your diet for a month, you can “reset” your body and then slowly reintroduce each group systematically to see which one(s) may be problematic for you.

This kind of controlled self-experiment definitely appealed to the scientist in me, which is why I decided to give it a try. Well, what’s left to eat, you ask? Meat, fish, eggs, nuts, vegetables and fruits — i.e., it’s back to the basics. (There are vegetarian versions of the program too.)

My goals

Generally, when I started I felt like my overall nutrition was already rather good, although there was certainly plenty of room for improvement. Thanks to a very different food culture, my diet has mostly definitely improved since arriving in Germany 7+ years ago  — I’ve mostly ditched sodas and junk food and replaced them with whole grain breads, muesli, and a whole array of fantastic dairy products!  But I was definitely going heavy on carbs (and maybe on  Franzbrötchen too, my favorite German pastry) and light on protein and veggies. So my aim was to really focus on increasing my protein and iron and general vitamin intake, while decreasing my sugar intake.. I wasn’t trying to lose weight, but was rather hoping the increased protein would help with my strength training.

Another aim was more behavioral than nutritional — I wanted to develop the habit of cooking more of my meals, and thereby increase my confidence in the kitchen and my ability to take a bunch of whole and raw ingredients and turn them into a satisfying meal.

The process

I basically set aside the month of October for my Whole30 experiment. Half-marathon training was over, Thanksgiving was still a month away (and thus wouldn’t be affected by the program), and I didn’t have any major travel plans, so it seemed like the perfect time to throw myself into it.

In general, I found Whole30 to be all-consuming, which was effective for increasing my nutritional awareness! Suddenly I had to plan ahead for every single meal every single day. I couldn’t just pick something up on the way home from work. Also, since I usually eat my lunch everyday at the cafeteria at work — because lunch in Germany is traditionally a big warm meal, while dinner often consists of  bread, cheese, and sausage or the like —  it was a huge transition to suddenly be bringing my food with me every day. And sadly my favorite breakfast of quark (a German dairy product similar to yogurt, but different) and muesli had to be replaced with something heartier and not-so-breakfast-like.

Throughout this whole experiment, I spent an enormous amount of time at the grocery store and an enormous amount of money. For someone who doesn’t usually purchase a lot of meat, I was a bit shocked by the sticker price. I didn’t use to purchase a lot of meat/fish/poultry in the US, so I can’t really offer up an actual comparison, but it seemed to me to be mega-expensive here.  And forget about organic — that was totally out of my price range in the quantities that I was purchasing it in (three meals a day for 30 days, all centered around a major protein source, is a lot of meat).  And let’s not even talk about schlepping all those groceries home via tram or bicycle when you live in a typical German city without a car!

Of course preparing three meals a day from scratch is also totally time consuming — which I suppose is also part of the point of counteracting fast food. But when reading other resources online for how to manage the increased level of cooking and a full-time job plus all my other commitments, many of the American resources mentioned “Whole30 approved” brands of ready-made/packaged foods which decreased their prep and cooking times. Ach ja. Of course, no such thing exists here (no one I talked to in Germany about Whole30 had ever even heard of it), so I was more or less stuck making everything from scratch.

I have to admit I was a teensy bit jealous of my counterparts back in the USA, but I eventually got the hang of it.  I  poured through the Whole30 cookbook nearly every day, and was totally grateful for the handy measurement conversion table in the back of the book — though I would plead for them to include both US and metric measurements right in the recipe!  Once a week I planned out my meals for the upcoming week and made my grocery list. Sunday afternoons I spent preparing several meals, and even with my tiny German refrigerator and freezer — which doesn’t lend itself to freezing things in large quantities — somehow I still managed on a week-to-week basis.

The outcome

Overall, I didn’t notice any drastic changes in my health or energy levels, so I suspect that since my diet was already rather healthy, there was a bit of a ceiling effect happening. I could have extended for another 15 or 30 days to see if I just needed longer for a more noticeable effect, but I just couldn’t bear the thought, so I stopped right at 30.

During the reintroduction phase, the only food group that I had a negative reaction to was legumes, which includes my beloved peanut butter (major sad face emoji here) — I felt completely nauseous that day.  So I’ve mostly eliminated beans from my diet altogether and have made the complete (unfortunately, expensive) switch over to almond butter.

I relaxed a bit over Thanksgiving (celebrating twice here with German and expat friends!) and over the holidays with my family in Seattle and enjoyed all my favorite treats. Now I’m back to eating my typical winter breakfast of oatmeal with nuts and berries, although these days I’m also throwing in an egg for extra protein and drinking my coffee black. I’m also back to eating lunches at the cafeteria at work — and now I focus on including at least one source of protein and plenty of vegetables. Some days it works better than others, depending on what’s on the menu.

I’m also cooking more real meals these days — mostly for the purposes of the weekend or a few leftovers for week nights — which I consider a major accomplishment and probably the most positive outcome of my experience with Whole30!

So was it worth taking on the Whole30 challenge over here in Germany? Most definitely! Did it take a bit more extra time and planning than if I had done it in the US? Yes, indeed — but now that I’ve gathered up a bunch of tips and tricks, I can actually see myself doing it again next year.

What are your experiences with Whole30 or similar nutritional “cleanses”? Would you ever consider taking on such a challenge?