How did it get to be the middle of December already? These last few weeks have been incredibly busy — settling into my new place (love!), getting to know my new neighborhood (love!), celebrating Thanksgiving with 2 Americans, 1 Argentinian, 1 Georgian and 11 Germans (delicious!), and kicking some butt in the very serious business of getting this dissertation written.
It just really dawned on me today that I’m flying to Seattle on Monday for two weeks with the family over the holidays. Although I’m dragging work with me, I’m looking forward to some coffee drinking, running along the waterfront, and a bit of relaxation too.
Although I’m leaving Germany behind a bit early this year, I’ve kept up on my Glühwein drinking duties, and I still have at least two Christmas markets to visit before I fly out on Monday!
Markets visited: 4 in Bremen, 4 in Hamburg
Bags of Schmalzkuchen: 2
Mugs of Glühwein: 3
Mugs (inadvertantly) collected: 1
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No question, Christmas markets are at their most beautiful after the sun has gone down and all the lights are twinkling and glowing. However, capturing this festive atmosphere on film is not so easy. First of all, it’s dark — so you have to know a little bit about how to use the various settings on your camera to account for this. Second, it’s freezing cold — so after awhile your fingers go numb and you can’t play with your camera settings, even if you want to. Third, the Christmas markets can get quite crowded, particularly in the evenings — which makes it hard to hold the camera steady without being jarred about. And finally, you’ve usually had a mug of Glühwein or two to warm up — which doesn’t usually improve your fine motor skills or your patience for any of the above (ok, maybe that’s my own personal problem!). In other words, I’m usually not so happy with the outcome of my attempts at photographing Christmas markets.
Despite a good deal of online searching, I couldn’t find much help specifically geared towards photographing Christmas markets, but I did find quite a bit for photographing lights. In general, these websites — this one and this one were particularly helpful — suggest the following tips (aimed specifically at DSLR cameras, but these days a lot of it could also be applied to point-and-shoot cameras and smartphones too):
Turn the flash off (duh).
Shoot in manual mode and take the aperture down to around f/4 or so, or as low as it will go.
Disable the automatic ISO setting and keep the ISO around 200 or 400, since taking it too much higher will reduce the quality of the photograph.
Adjust the shutter speed so that it’s slow enough to let in enough light.
Since the shutter speed is probably going to be too slow to allow for sharp shots with the camera in your hand, use a tripod to keep it steady.
Finally, change the white balance to ‘incandescent’ or ‘tungsten’ to account for the orange glow incandescent Christmas lights usually give off. (Or if you’re shooting in RAW format, this can be changed later during processing.)
So this year I studied up on how best to use the manual mode on my DSLR (I usually shoot with aperture priority), experimented at home with different shutter speeds, packed up my tripod, and headed out to photograph Christmas markets in Bremen…
I didn’t end up using the tripod as often as I would have liked, simply for lack of space because of the Saturday evening crowds. Instead, I played around with how slow of a shutter speed I could use while keeping the camera steady in my hands. Most of my photos ended up being underexposed, but since I shot in RAW, I was easily able to correct this during processing. I definitely plan on learning a bit more about controlling the exposure while shooting, but one step at a time, I guess. Also I didn’t change the white balance while shooting, but rather during processing.
In any case, there is still plenty of room for improvement — but if you compare these photos to my Christmas market photos from the last years, there is noticeable progress (in my eyes, at least)! For my next photography outing, I want to go around dusk so I can also capture a bit of the sky as a contrast to the lights. And it goes without saying, to make more use of slower shutter speeds, I really need to photograph on a less crowded evening (e.g., during the week) to allow for the use of my tripod. I’m looking forward to giving it another try!
Do you have any tips for photographing Christmas markets or lights to share?
And last but not least, here are the all-important Christmas market statistics so far for 2013:
Bremen woke up to its first dusting of snow this morning, after a very stormy day yesterday thanks to Hurricane Xaver. It’s still very windy and snowing off and on, reminding us all that winter has really arrived. Makes me want to drink Glühwein and cuddle underneath a blanket!
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Every December for the last many years, I’ve shared with you my love for exploring Germany’s Christmas markets — keeping running tabs on how many mugs of Glühwein and bags of Schmalzkuchen I’ve consumed (too many), challenging myself to visit new markets every year, and taking way too many photographs!
This year will be much the same — but in addition to all of that, I’m gathering all of my Christmas market posts here in one place, especially focusing on Weihnachtsmärkte in the cities I know best — including Hamburg, Berlin, Bremen, Hannover, and Lüneburg. Along with some helpful tips and information, I’ll keep adding new links as the season continues so you can start exploring Germany’s Christmas markets right away.
It’s the most wonderful time of the year
Christmas markets got their start in the German-speaking areas of Europe during the late-Middle Ages. Around the 14th century, winter markets started selling more than just meat and supplies for winter — and began offering toys, sweets, and roasted almonds and chestnuts too. These days cities and towns across Germany host their own Christmas market(s) — the Weihnachtsmärkte in the big cities run every day through the four weeks of Advent, while the markets in the smaller towns and villages may only run for a weekend or just for one day.
My very favorite part of the Christmas markets is certainly the food! Enjoying a hot mug of Glühwein while standing outside in the dark and freezing temperatures is nearly a requirement of the Weihnachtsmarkt experience. Though there’s always lots to choose from, I usually find myself gravitating to the Kartoffelpuffer (latkes), Schmalzkuchen (fried dough with powdered sugar), and gebrannte Maronen (roasted chestnuts).
If you’re in the mood for shopping, there are plenty of stands where you can find a last-minute gift or the perfect ornament for the tree. The Weihnachtsmärkte are typically open all day long, but are at their most beautiful after the sun goes down. If you can, visiting in the evening during the week is a wonderful way to avoid the largest crowds, but still enjoy the magical glow of the Christmas lights.
The first Weihnachtsmarkt I ever visited (a couple of years before I even moved to Germany) was at Jungfernstieg along the Alster, so Hamburg’s Christmas markets will always hold a special place in my heart. If you start at the Alster and then walk towards the city center, you’ll encounter loads of Christmas markets along the way.
Germany’s capital offers dozens and dozens of Weihnachtsmärkte, so you will be guaranteed to find one that suits your tastes — especially if you’re searching for a less traditional experience.
You just can’t beat Bremen’s Altstadt or waterfront as the perfect, magical backdrops for a picturesque Christmas market scene. The medieval Christmas market along the waterfront is also one of my favorites.
The number of Weihnachtsmärkte in Hannover has really grown over the last several years! My hands-down favorite is the Finnish market — located in the Altstadt and surrounded by gorgeous Fachwerk houses, it’s definitely worth a visit.
Walking through Lüneburg’s Altstadt feels like you’re walking through a storybook during the Christmas season! So quaint and charming that I can’t believe that it took me so long to visit.
Where are your favorite Weihnachtsmärkte in Germany? What kind of Christmas market food do you like the best?
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